The Birth of Contouring

The Birth Of Contouring

Written by Rosie Penn

We have all heard of 'Contouring' and 'The Contour' when it comes to make-up and here at Face Value we wanted to investigate into the history of the contour technique, where did it come from?. Thanks to world famous Kim Kardashian-West the trend of contouring has become increasingly popular, especially for today's youth. But what actually does 'contouring' mean? Contouring is giving shape to an area of the face and enhancing the facial structure through makeup," says Beau Nelson, Kristen Stewart's longtime makeup artist.Before the Kim K era, the contouring technique was actually used by make-up artists and stage performers as an essential to look a certain way for a role rather than for the desire of having the perfect sculpted face. The technique of contouring actually came about in the early 1500's, where stage actors in Elizabethan England would use soot and chalk on their faces in order for the audience to read their facial expressions more clearly.

However, as time went by and technology started growing more high-tech artificial lighting came

around in the 1800's meaning that when stage actors used soot and chalk to emphasise their facial

expressions the new artificial lights revealed this and therefore the actors had to use new materials

for their makeup instead. The actors then changed the materials of their makeup and began to use

"pancake makeup" which is where the technique of using a makeup sponge (or beauty blender)

comes from. The actors would even use grease paint in a way to enhance their facial features in

rder to give off the most accurate facial expressions whilst performing. In addition to this during

this period of the 1800's through to the 1900's only a few selected people wore make-up, unlike

today, only stage performers and prostitutes used makeup on their faces due to the fact that Queen

Victoria declared that makeup was simply "vulgar" and the only places available to purchase such

"vulgar" materials was fancy dress shops!.

Due to the fact that women were not allowed to act on stage during the 18th century, men in makeup has always been around. The birth of drag can be seen since the late 1800's and the early 20th century. A good example of an early drag queen is Ulian Eltinge who began performing in Broadway shows from the age of 10, appearing as a girl, and by 1910 reached the height of his fame going on a national tour of America and even producing his own magazine. "Queens have been using these tricks from the very beginning. Contouring allows you to remove the man and reveal the woman by changing the shape of your face, removing the male jawline and even toning down the Adam’s apple,” says Ricky Boudreau, M.A.C cosmetics trainer who also goes by the female alter ego Ultra Violet. The contouring t technique has been taken and used by drag queens in order for then to transform into a more feminine and lady like appearance, it is a good form for anyone who wants to do drag to express their inner feminity and also allows them to identify as a woman to society.

After contouring being born by stage actors in the Elizabethan times it gradually made its way to the world of film.

Film legends such as German actress Marlene Dietrich took the contouring technique and began to use it in order

to manipulate her face whilst being on screen. She began to "shade" and sculpture" the natural lines on her face in

order to accentuate her natural beauty for the camera. The German actress was also well known for her signature

overly arched thin eyebrows! This spotlights again how makeup trends are constantly changing and expanding as

time goes by. The trend of 2016 is the 'faded brow' where you would shade the tails of your brows to give off an

enhanced 'faded' look which also gives the illusion of a thick brow, another technique used in drag makeup.

In the year 1934, a well-known makeup artist named Max Factor was one of the top makeup artist

regularly used for screen actors. Max Factor himself was fascinated with the contouring technique

which he had learned come from stage makeup. Max Factor took the technique of contouring,

however, he put his own spin on the technique and added more shading and sculpting when contouring the actors faces in order to gain more depth so the face would not appear flat when captured on camera. In 1945 Max Factor's make-up school created and released a how-to- contour step by step guide in order to reveal to the world the certain steps you must follow in order to achieve the perfect contoured face. Evenin today's society, Max Factor is credited by many makeup artists for creating the specific how-to guide.

Even in the 50's a time of old Hollywood glamour world known actresses such as Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and even Audrey Hepburn were enhancing their faces with a natural contour, old portrait pictures of the beauties make this evident. Due to the fact their makeup tips was not shared how celebrities such as Kim Kardashian showcase her beauty regime today, people at the time just simply was not aware of the shading techniques used on these idols due to the fact there was no social media or internet to platform the technique like there is today.

As time went by contouring started being used subtly by mass numbers of makeup artists.

One of the most famous makeup artists during the 90's was, in fact, Kevyn Aucoin who took

the contouring technique and made his own subtle but chiseled look on the likes of his celebrity

friends and clients such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Cher, Barbara Streisand and Naomi Campbell and

his skill of technique and bubbly personality made him known as one of the greatest makeup artists

of all time.

In 2010, the makeup technique of contouring became increasing popular due to the fact of Kim Kardashian and the world of social media to give the technique a world known understanding of what contouring actually is. In 2012 Kim Kardashian who was extremely popular by then tweeted a picture of herself before being contoured and after revealing the makeup technique she uses in order to get the 'perfect' chiseled features upon her face, making millions of people aware of how she achieves her makeup look and in addition, revealing her look is possible on pretty much anyone by the stroke of a brush! Thanks to Kim Kardashian revealing her makeup routine she has now created a worldwide trend which is the contour and is now known for her contoured face globally. Contouring has fastly become a worldwide phenomenon within the world of makeup and has now become an obvious trend rather than a subtle makeup technique that it firstly was. Thanks to social media contouring is now a phenomenon trend across the world.

SOURCES:
http://www.byrdie.co.uk/history-of-contouring/slide10
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/fashion-and-beauty/beauty/contouring-comely-or-cartoonish/article23633095/
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2782040/The-man-invented-contouring-Legendary-make-artist-Kevyn-Aucoin-beautified-Kate-Moss-Gwyneth-Courtney-Love-subject-fascinating-new-exhibition.html